What will need to be replaced this spring with regards to winter damage on your garden patio and decking

So winter is over and you are getting back out there. Nice warm spring day, with a lovely cup of tea and your decking is just not looking quite right. Or your patio slabs aren’t aligned like they should be.

Winter really does a number on your outdoor flooring. Constant freezing, getting moist and frost will creep into every crack over the winter and do damage.

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Wooden decking is the most impacted by this kind of damage. The boards get wet and expand, dry out and then contract. When it is really cold they freeze. This cycle occurs over and over every winter.

If you need to check the damage this winter will have done then check the ends of the boards first. This is where you will see splitting of the boards. The hairline cracks you will have gotten will over the winter. Every winter that is left should get progressively worse. You will have to get a solution for them and I can tell you it wont be leaving them to dry out. You will get water saturated and the entire board will just rot from the inside.

Check the gaps between the boards at a consistent distance. If the gaps are uneven or some of them have closed or opened the boards are shifting. If the framing is shifting, that means the loose fixings are causing the problem. If you can, check the joists. Wood does not like stagnant water on horizontal surfaces.

The wood composite decking is more resistant to damage but it is not immune. The boards can be frost resistant, but are the fixings? That’s what the problem usually is. Metal screws get loose over time due to it expanding and contracting at differential rates. If you hear creaking when walking on the deck, it means the fixings are loose and the boards are moving.

Patio Slabs and the Frost Problem

Frost damage on pavings is sneaky because you won’t always see it straight away.

What happens is this: The water freezes when it seeps into small gaps within the stone or concrete, expands and makes the crack it is in deeper. If this happens multiple times over the season, it will result in chunks of the surface breaking off. The corners are usually the first place to go, and are usually the first part to have calving, when surface flaking starts to happen.

Certify your slabs are smooth to the touch. Any elbow is frost damage and will get worse. Unfortunately, there is no adequate way to repair frost damage. Your only option for heavily frost damaged slabs is a replacement.

Inspect the bed where the slabs are joined. This is called the pointing and it is typically made of mortar or sand. Pointing is often washed out during the winter and frost. Liquid precipitation, snow, and frost thawing in the joints can take the pointing. Without the pointing, moisture can get trapped under the slabs creating subsidence, and vertical movement.

When slabs are at the perimeter, push down to test if they are secure. An elevated perimeter slab should not yield to vertical pressure. If it does, the underlying base is problematic and has either eroded away or not settled properly. To fix this, the slabs need to be removed, the base re-leveled and the slabs re-laid.

The Frame is Always Important

No matter if you are using decking or paving, the frame is very important during winter. The structure underneath is more important than the slab surface.

Decking frames, the joists, and bearers that support the boards, stay in contact with damp ground all winter. Even treated timber rots eventually. Use a screwdriver to prod the timber. It should feel solid, but if it goes in easily, that means there’s soft timber and more extensive work will be needed, not just the simple task of replacing a few boards.

The concrete pads or blocks that support the decking frame will all shift with frost heave. That is when the frozen ground expands and lifts everything that is sitting on top, then when it thaws, it unevenly settles back down. Your nice level deck from last summer? It is not level anymore, and you will feel it as you walk across it. There may be a slight dip or rise where there shouldn’t be one.

The sub-base underneath a patio does all the real work as well. If water gets in there and freezes, it can lift the whole patio, but when it thaws, it settles back down to a new position. That is why you can get sunken areas or slabs that rock underfoot.

Getting to repairs early can save more work in the future. But repairs that will be needed right away should be obvious and will be needed long before winter comes around again.

This is a priority: anything that lets more water in. Loose boards on the decking, cracks on the slab, anything that is missing pointing. Water causes the most damage, so waterproofing things is the priority.

So does the structural stuff. Things like rotten joists, sinking bases of the patio, loose fixings. These things get worse way too quickly, and they cost a lot more to fix.

Surface damage – scratches, scuff marks, faded colour – that’s more cosmetic. It looks rubbish, but is not actual damage. Sort out the structural stuff first, then worry about cosmetic damage like making it look nice.

And here’s the thing: some of this you can DIY, but some you probably shouldn’t. Re-pointing paving? It’s easy. Replacing rotten deck joists over uneven ground? Get someone else in who’s supposed to know what they’re doing. Otherwise, you’re just a false economy.

What To Do First

First of all, you need to do a little examination of the existing lino. Get down on all fours and do a proper thorough inspection. This should not be a five second glance. Is it smooth and even? Are there any missing pieces of lino? Are there any bumps? Press on various parts of the lino. Is there any place that feels soft or bouncy?

If the condition of the lino appears to be decent, which means no major damages, firmly glued down, and reasonably level, you have a decent base. On the other hand, if the edges are peeling up, there are signs of water damage, as well as an uneven feeling, do not attempt to work over the problematic floor. It would likely be a big regret.

The Subfloor Matters More Than You Think

People seem to forget, but it’s not really about the lino.

In the first place, lino has to be attached to a solid, level subfloor, which means that if the subfloor is good, and the lino is still firmly attached to it, you can work with it. And if not? New flooring will just hide the problem. Down the line, you’ll end up with movement, I creaking, and potentially worse damage.

Especially check for damp. Press your hand against the lino in different areas and see if anywhere seems cool or clammy. Look for any spots that look discoloured and musty. If you notice any hint of damp, alternative steps will be required, and should be the first step.

Height Issues Nobody Mentions

Adding wooden flooring on top of lino will, of course, raise your floor level. It is, in fact, obvious. But people don’t always think through what that means.

New door heights. A step up where the new floor meets carpet in other rooms. An odd look to the skirting boards.

Engineered wood is around 14-15mm thick, and when you add underlay, around 2-3mm, that’s almost 20mm of height added. Make sure you measure your door clearances before the purchase.

Which Type of Wood Floor Works Best

You’ve got two main options: engineered wood and solid wood. When working over lino, engineered wood is the ideal option. It is more stable and less likely to react to a bit of moisture in the subfloor. It is also easier to install floating over a surface.

Solid wood is an option, but also a more complicated one. It needs to be fixed down, nailed, or glued. Nailing through lino and into the subfloor when it is concrete or thick chipboard is the best option. You’ll need to know what you are nailing into.

The floating installation is the easiest. The boards, when fitted, click together, and rest upon the underlay without fixing to the subfloor. This is also fine over lino, as long as it is smooth and level.

Preparation is Everything

Congratulations! Your lino has passed inspection and you’re ready to continue to the next step.

Start by cleaning the lino. Thoroughly vacuum and wash it to get rid of any dirt, grease, or wax. Check the edges of the lino for any raised seams of the lino. These need to be sanded down flush. Any small seams will show through the wooden flooring, and will create squeaky spots and uneven flooring.

Slowly walk around the room and press down with your feet. If anywhere springs back or feels subject, you will need to patch and replace the flooring below the damaged lino.

The Underlay Question

Do not skip the underlay simply because you already have lino. Underlay will provide cushioning, additional sound insulation, and a moisture barrier. If you’re on a ground floor, get one with a damp proof membrane.

If laying your wooden floor straight, lay your underlay at right angles to that. Tape the edges to prevent sheets from over lapping, as you will get lumps in the floor covering.

When to Just Remove the Lino

In some scenarios, removing the lino is definitely the better option. If the lino is already damaged, removal won’t add extra effort, and the end result will be significantly better. Plus, you won’t have to worry about the current lino being the support surface for your new floor.

Lino is often able to be removed easily, especially if it has been on the floor for years and the adhesive has dried out. All you may need is some patience and a scraper. It won’t be as difficult as you think.

Are you going to be putting down solid wood and need to nail it down or glue it? Remove the lino as you will need to have direct contact with the subfloor.

Making the Decision

But, if your lino is sound, level, and stuck down well, you have the option to install over it. This would save time & mess, as you can avoid the hassle of removing old flooring. For floating installs of engineered wood, it works well too.

However, if you are unsure about the condition of the lining, and if there is a subfloor present, then you will need to take more time to lift it. Remember, wooden flooring is a long-term investment, so it is not worth sacrificing the condition of the base you are installing it on just to save a few hours of work.

When it comes to flooring, wood is more expensive. You can only expect to pay good money for engineered wood starting at £40 – 100+, but you’re solid oak planks and walnut flooring are going to be easily more expensive than that. Laminate? You can get something decent for about £15 – 25 per square meter.

Thats the thing. You can expect real wood flooring to last for decades as long as you look after it. You might only get 10-15 years out of laminate if you’re lucky, and it can be really easy to run it down to the point where you have to just clear the entire flooring instead of making any scratches.

How They Actually Work

Real wood flooring changes with the climate. It expands with moisture in the air and contracts when it is drier. This is just how wood functions. There should be expansion gaps left around the edges and be prepared to accept that the material is alive. Some people become bothered by this. Others find it adds character.

Laminate flooring is not nearly as affected by the climate. It is more stable dimensionally making it easier to live with some ways. However, if you drop something heavy on it, it will dent or chip, and cannot be repaired. With real wood, you can typically sand down the surface to remove damage or make it less noticeable.

The Reality of Maintenance

Nobody ever mentions this in brochures. Wooden flooring requires some level of care. Not excessive amounts, but some. When mopping you cannot just slosh around water. You need to use the proper products and follow the instructions.

Depending on the height of foot traffic, the flooring may need to be re-oiled or re-varnished every couple of years. This is an inconvenience, but it is also a responsibility that needs taking care of. This kind of maintenance is enjoyed by some people, and is considered a nuisance by others.

Cleaning laminate flooring is simple. If liquid is spilled, just wipe it up; no special cleaning supplies are required. However, if water accumulates in the flooring joints, it will cause damage that cannot be repaired. Water-related damage can happen if a pot plant overflows, or if there is a leak in a washing machine. Once water is inside the joints, you’ll end up with laminate flooring swelling, and undulating distortion of the laminate will occur.

What About Underfoot?

Despite being more subjective than the other points, real, solid plank wood is the preferred flooring option. Walk barefoot across the flooring planks and experience the real wood underfoot. It will be a much warmer and stable feeling than any laminate wood product can provide.

Other laminate products do a good job of trying to match wood grains, and some have convincing textured embossed surfaces. But at the end of the day, one can entirely feel the multi-layered plank product beside the flooring. It simply feels more rigid, and the surface can be mistaken for surfaces of other laminate products, creating a more clinical flooring style.

When Laminate Makes Sense

It may be a better bang for your buck, but buying laminate flooring is simply the way to go if you’re in a rental. If you’re in a rental and may need to relocate in the next couple years, don’t make the investment in wood flooring, as you may have to walk away from the added value of your investment. In these cases, laminate or other vinyl flooring products are the most common and cost-effective choices.

If you have kids that are going to be bashing toys, or dogs with sharp claws, laminate takes abuse without you having to worry about the repair costs. Damaging a plank will only set you back about twenty quid. Damaging a section of engineered wood planks costs considerably more.

Laminate works well in other parts of the house too, most notably kitchens. The waterproof options that are technically luxury vinyl but sold alongside laminate, deal with wood’s splashes and spills better. Just make sure to get something rated specifically for wet areas.

When Wood is Worth It

Living rooms and bedrooms is when wooden flooring really comes into its own. These are spaces where you really want that premium feel underfoot, and the wood is more expensive, which makes the room feel more finished.

In the event you plan to stay in your house long term, be advised that wood makes financial sense in this situation. The initial cost may be considerable but, over twenty years, it works out cheaper than having to replace laminate and wood flooring multiple times.

In the case that you sell your house, be sure to know estate agents appreciate a wooden floor. It photographs well, and for that, it deserves praise. It is noted and appreciated by buyers, more than laminate, even if it looks similar in pictures.

The Relatable Reality

In actuality, there are no right or wrong answers to these questions. The best answers depend on each unique situation, including budget limitations, the particulars of each house, and the homeowner’s lifestyle. Keep in mind, laminate flooring is not a budget-friendly alternative to hardwood flooring. It is a completely different material and product altogether, even though they may appear similar. Each product has it’s time and place.

The best option, in my opinion, is to put in engineered hardwood flooring in the main living spaces of the house, as long as the budget seems feasible. In the hallways and spare rooms where some durability is required, and you do not need a premium laminate flooring, I would suggest putting in laminate flooring. However, I am basing this on my own personal situation and circumstances, and they may be completely different from your own.

At some point, our homes are going to need their carpets replaced. Whether this is because we are just moving in, or the carpet has become so worn down that we fancy a change. When is the best time to replace them?

Well, this question is fairly simple to answer. The best time to replace your carpets is before you move in. If you are able to stay in your old place or elsewhere. this is ideal. It is easier to replace carpets in your home before loads of furniture have been put inside. This reduces the amount of work needed to place the new carpet. As with furniture, you will need to move it around when taking up and putting down the carpet. So, the best time is when the property is empty. If this is not doable, then after you have finished decorating, but before the rooms are full with all of your stuff.

When you purchase new carpets for your home, you may notice sheds of carpet appearing. This can be a worry if you have never purchased a new carpet for your home before. But, we are here to tell you that this is completely normal. Due to the carpet being cut to fit your room perfectly. It is normal to see areas fraying around the edge of your carpet. Once all the frays have gone, you should notice that these do not reappear. Fraying and sheds of carpet can also be due to how new the carpet is. Some of the fluffiness is going to go away through shedding. Again this shouldn’t last a long time, a few times over with a vacuum should get them up and your carpet will become perfect. So, don’t worry about your carpet fraying and shedding, this is completely normal and will pass.